The perfume is the intoxicating expression of the soul, it is a sweet melody composed of aromatic notes, mixed together harmoniously in order to uplift the spirit and free the mind; in fact, just like music, it cheers up the soul, promotes a meditative state and raises the vital tone.
Furthermore, natural perfumery has a great added value: the pharmacotherapeutic action conferred by the power of natural essential oils. Natural perfume therefore has possibilities of action on the psycho-physical dimension, that is, it acts, at the same time, on the emotional and physical plane, thanks to the energetic properties and the pharmacological action it possesses.
This holistic vision, and in some ways spagyric, led me to the idea of benefiting from the notions of this book to reproduce the heart of the perfume: its fragrance. After a brief historical excursus and general technical notions on how to synergistically combine the different aromas, I will design an aromatic “soul”, therefore I will not create a classic bottle of perfume, but simply a fragrance, a “dress” to be worn in a specific moment (which arises from a need of an emotional and / or physical nature), which I can indifferently incorporate in:
– an alcoholic solution if we want a product to vaporize on the skin;
– an ointment, a cream, a gel or an oil if we want to rub it on the body (acting simultaneously on the biophysical and biochemical levels)
– a composition to be spread in the air to exploit its aromatherapy action.
Specifically, I will show you how to create two types of fragrances; both, in addition to giving a pleasant aroma, will have a specific function on the psyche and on the body of the person who wishes to try the benefits.
For convenience, I will define the fragrances as “masculine” and “feminine”, but it is my duty to remember that in natural perfumery the border between a masculine and a feminine fragrance is rather blurred, nowadays there are many women who like “strong” smells and many men who prefer fragrances called “sweet”, once considered more delicate and feminine. Furthermore, it is good to keep in mind the fact that essential oils tend to adapt to the person’s skin to a greater extent than synthetic, “static” fragrances, leaving on the skin a delicious clean scent and fresh notes, with a neutral scent, and natural indeed.
Ultimately I will analyze the specific actions that each of the two perfumes will have on the body.
Hints of chemistry and structure of a fragrance
Putting the different essential oils together requires a minimum of basic knowledge of the chemical composition of each one, so that the mélange is pleasant and persistent. A brief chemical analysis will also help us understand their medical properties.
There are two large groups of components of essential oils (oe) that define their chemistry: hydrocarbons, consisting almost exclusively of terpenes (monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes and diterpenes) and oxygenated compounds (phenols, alcohols, esters, aldehydes, ketones, oxides). See, “The Chemistry of Essential Oils (made simple)”, David Stewart.
Monoterpenes: they are present in almost all plants, they have the function of inhibiting the accumulation of toxins, they also increase the potential of the other components [grapefruit, orange, balsamic fir].
Sesquiterpenes: They erase the wrong information in the cellular memory and they too are present in almost all the ee. They are larger than monoterpenes and much more viscous, they are less volatile and for this reason the oils that contain a greater quantity are used as fixatives [cedar wood, sandalwood, myrrh].
Phenols: They stimulate the nervous and immune systems, have bactericidal properties, can be irritating [cloves, thyme, oregano, savory, tea tree].
Alcohols: They have good antiseptic, antiviral and toning properties, they are usually non-toxic, they also have strong oxidation resistance properties [rosewood, lavender, lemon, geranium, rose].
Esters: They are the components that promote relaxation, calm and balance, they are strongly sedative as well as fungicides [valerian, Roman chamomile, bergamot, lavender, clary sage, marjoram].
Aldehydes: They are responsible for the most delicious fragrances. They calm nervousness, relieve stress and promote relaxation, they are antiseptics. [lemon, lemongrass, lemongrass, eucalyptus, verbena].
Ketones: They are not as prevalent as monoterpenes and alcohols and some of them are toxic. They promote cell regeneration, have decongestant properties, are mucolytic [among the non-toxic substances that contain a fair amount we find: jasmine, fennel, hyssop, clary sage, rosemary].
Oxides: They derive from the previous oxidized alcohols, terpenes and ketones. The most important is the cineol present in the eucalyptus which has expectorant and stimulating properties. Oxides are also found largely in tea tree, cajeput and bay leaf.